
Rebel wear finds its way to art museum
By ADRIENNE FRANK
Get Out
The motorcycle jacket has gone from street culture to the silver screen to Paris runways. And somewhere along the way, it became an art form.
“Motorcycle Jacket” — featuring nearly 40 jackets from the early ’40s to 2003 — opened last week at the Phoenix Art Museum; the exhibit runs through Aug. 29 in the second floor fashion gallery. (Eleven jackets are also featured in the first floor of the museum.)
In addition to haute couture jackets on loan from such renowned designers as Oscar de la Renta, Chanel, Dolce & Gabanna, Versace, Carolina Herrera and Roberto Cavalli, the exhibit also features leathers worn by Bridgett Bardot and Elvis Presley (who, along with Marlon Brando, James Dean and Steve McQueen, is credited with popularizing the “bad boy” leather look). And lest you think this exhibit is all about traditional black ’n’ brown leather, “Motorcycle Jacket” also features coats in gold, neon yellow, red and turquoise.
Three motorcycles — including a 1955 pumpkin orange Harley Davidson with red flame accents — compliment the exhibit. A 2001 Honda ridden to victory by Miguel Duhamel in the 600 Supersport race at Daytona in 2001 is also featured, along with Miguel’s red and white leather suit.
“This is a celebration of a uniquely American style,” says Dennita Sewell, curator of fashion design. “I have original leathers showing the origins of the style and also a lot of jackets inspired by the early designs. It’s interesting to see how much the style has influenced designers and artists and society, in general.”
Highlights of the exhibit include a 2003 white leather Moschino jacket adorned with pink ribbons and flowers, bows and hearts crafted from pearls; the über-feminine jacket also features patches which read, in pink lettering: “Love” and “Oh ... la ... la.” Another unusual Moschino design, a 2001 black wool jacket, features pockets, stitching and a belt which are handpainted — a technique called “trompe l’oeil,” which is used to trick the viewer into believing the object is real.
Also worth checking out are Elvis’ black leather jacket, made in the late ’60s or early ’70s by Mike Howard of Beverly Hills, and a brown leather bomber jacket — complete with an Alberto Vargas-inspired pin-up on the back — worn by a pilot during World War II. Next to this military-issue jacket is a Sears, Roebuck & Co. version of the coat— the “Hercules,” which sold in the ’40s for about $10.
|