Parmigiano does Italian right with great food, service
By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
Get Out

Wait: As the four of us walk toward Parmigiano at 6:30 p.m. on a Friday, a salt-and-pepper-haired Italian gentleman gets up from his patio chair to welcome us. He opens the door and says, with a wonderfully strong accent, “I’ve got the perfect table for you.” Turns out he’s the owner, Lorenzo Vivoli.

Service: There are more staffers than customers, and all are well-versed in the do’s and don’ts of service. This team is so quick on its feet, I have a new fork, courtesy of Lorenzo’s wife, Svetlana, almost as my original clanks to the floor. Our small, round table backs up to a wall, which could have easily led lazier types to reach across one of us when refilling a glass or delivering a dish. Never happens.

Our waitress, Sarah Vivoli, is all smiles and relaxed enough to giggle at her father as he struggles to roll his restaurant’s makeshift specials board toward our table. Between her and the on-the-ball busboy, we never ask for a thing.

Meal: In true Italian style, an order of cheesy garlic bread is “forced” upon us by Lorenzo after he sees us toast a complimentary basket of warm bread, as well as our chicken-stuffed mushrooms and crab cakes.

Vivoli makes most of his pastas and all his sauces from scratch. Die-hards should enjoy the huge meat-sauce lasagna, fresh basil-topped spaghetti with meatballs (wish there were more than two!) and the rich fazzoletti di pasta special (two pasta pockets stuffed with ricotta, spinach, asparagus and mushrooms, topped with a cream sauce and two plump shrimp) just as much as we do.

As for the less carb-loaded options, our filetto di sogliola al limone (three sole filets sautéed and layered across a plate of spinach) is a delicate, healthy dish with a light lemon zest.

Scene: A cozy bistro that snuck into a space last occupied by Cold Stone Creamery, but there’s not a trace of the ice cream giant in the Italian-art-decked dining room. The lights dim toward the end of our meal, and it makes all the difference. Love all the hanging plant baskets; it’s one of the greenest rooms I’ve dined in.

Bathroom break: White and red tiles cover the bottom half of the walls in the private men’s and women’s restrooms — an homage of sorts to the previous occupant. Clean and lightly decorated.

Tab for four: $137 with tip and tax for funghi ripieni ($8), granchio di Alaska ($10), insalata alla Cesare ($6), antipasto Parmigiano ($8), lasagna classico ($12), spaghetti con polpette ($12), filetto di sogliola al limone ($19), fazzoletti di pasta ($16), tiramisu ($6), cannoli ($6) and a soda ($2).

If work weren’t buying: I’d be happy to pay my own way — it’s family-owned with impressive food and service.

SCORECARD
Food B+
Service A
Scene B
Bathrooms B

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Parmigiano Italian Bistro
23535 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale

Major cross streets: Pinnacle Peak and Scottsdale roads
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Reservations accepted: Not normally, but they do make exceptions Health report: Not available Kid friendly: Yes Web site: No