A Philly transplant weighs in on the Valley's new crop of heros
By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
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Who better to judge the East Valley's latest crop of cheesesteak shops than a guy whose father opened the award-winning Jim’s Steaks in south Philly back in 1976?

Ahwatukee Foothills resident and apparent “Rocky” fan Mike Silver grew up making and munching cheesesteaks — he’s a true Whiz kid.
Silver and I hit the four most recent additions to our cheesesteak market to find out who’s a contender and who’s a pretender.

PHILADELPHIA SANDWICH CO.
Opened: March 2005
Cheesesteak price: $6.50 for 10-incher

Silver's take: The champ. Why? Three words: The roll, the roll, the roll. The meat has good quality, consistency, flavor and there’s plenty of it. The rolls are flown in from Philly twice a week — crusty outside, spongy inside. When everything else is equal, it makes all the difference. The Cheez Whiz is just right. Onions are sliced, which is my only real criticism. A- Our take: Definitely the most sandwich for the money, but the steak isn’t sliced thinly enough. I prefer an almost shaved consistency. It isn’t finely chopped, either — too many big bites of meat. Great hearty, crusty baked roll. A nice layer of Cheez Whiz. Grilled onions are in strings and don’t have much flavor. B Try it: 7158 E. Fifth Ave., Scottsdale, or www.phillysandwichco.com.

DB’S PHILLY
Opened: December 2004
Cheesesteak price: $4.99 for 6-incher

Silver's take: The Clubber Lang of the bunch — all the right pieces put together not quite right. With a little tweaking, DB’s will be dead-on. Meat has a perfect consistency and is clearly a good cut. A bit overseasoned, though, and not enough volume for the roll, which lacks the character and crustiness of fresh-baked because it’s not (gumminess comes from plastic-bag storage). The Cheez Whiz is watery; it gushed rather than dripped from the roll. Onions need a larger chop and caramelizing to add flavor. B- Our take: Thin, finely chopped meat has the best flavor of the bunch; it's about time someone broke into the spice rack. Diced, lightly grilled onions smother the top. Cheez Whiz and grease ooze out the bottom, unlike drier Corleone’s version, which looked identical but didn’t have the same yummy flavor. Smelled great, too. B+ Try it: 7000 E. Mayo Blvd., Phoenix, or www.dbsphilly.com.

CORLEONE’S PHILLY STEAKS
Opened: October 2003
Cheesesteak price: $4.99 for 6-incher
Silver: The Apollo Creed — the most impressive-looking store; clean, slick and busy. Meat has nice slice and chop. Good flavor. The roll is freshly baked, but hard water is its nemesis. Cheez Whiz is applied well — proper application is critical. Onions? C’mon, don’t skimp. B Our take: Meat tastes like unseasoned hamburger — not much flavor — but it’s nice and thin. Small roll is room-temperature and tastes stale. Loads of Cheez Whiz. Could use more of the chopped onions and meat. C+ Try it: 15040 N. Northsight Blvd., Scottsdale, or www.corleones.net. Second location opening Aug. 18 at 411 S. Mill Ave., Tempe.

PHILLY’S FAMOUS
Opened: February 2005
Cheesesteak price: $5.35 for an 8-incher Silver's take: The Tommy Gunn — could be a contender, but needs Mickey in the corner. Meat is a little stringy (perhaps frozen after slicing or maybe a lesser cut). Roll isn’t made fresh. They do not offer Cheez Whiz (only American, provolone and mozzarella), which could be considered blasphemy in some neighborhoods. Onions are sliced rather than chopped, which makes it difficult to get a clean bite. C Our take: Shaved meat has nice, almost citrus flavor, but watching the cook throw a frozen square of it on the grill is a turnoff. Warm, thin roll is much less doughy than others sampled — good thing, because this one skimps a bit on the steak. No Whiz offered, so I go with white American, a change that has no real impact quality-wise for this West Coaster. Very thin strings of onion — chop those bad boys up. Make sure you ask for no “special red sauce.” C Try it: 1250 N. Alma School Road, Chandler, .