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Out-of-place 80s music is Z๓calos only weakness
By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
GET OUT
Wait: It's 7:30 p.m. on a Wednesday, and the 3-week-old Zócalo is packed. We wait a few minutes before a distracted hostess takes our name, and we wait a few more before taking a seat.
Service: Staff are clad in black, with colorful ties and scarves that mirror the restaurant's murals. It's a sophisticated yet fun look.
Our server is polite enough to take the women's orders first. Waters come quickly, but my friend's glass of wine and my prickly-pear lemonade are slow to arrive. The appetizers are borderline late, but the kitchen gets them out moments before we get grumpy. The timing between the starters and entrees is perfect.
Meal: Here's a first a restaurant willing to wait until they perfect a dish before they charge a trusting public for it.
As a result, there are a handful of benched items on the Mexican-slanted menu, which is probably why everything we order is impressive in taste and presentation.
The pretty pink-and-green tower of tuna tartare and chunky avocado is guacamole gone upscale. It comes with homemade chips and salsa, but why dilute this seafood sensation? We are just as pleased with our two grilled shrimp skewers one sweet, one spicy.
The chipotle chicken pasta is a big bowl of penne with a creamy sauce topped with crumbled cotija (a robust Mexican cheese similar to Parmesan). It's plated with a big slice of buttered, grilled rustic sourdough bread.
The chicken masa enchiladas and tacos de pescado both served with bland refried beans and a fine fluffy Spanish rice are expert versions of two south-of-the-border favorites. The battered sea bass in the fish tacos is amazing; each bite is light and airy with a nice crunch.
The pollo empanizado plate is a quartered chicken dipped in buttermilk and rolled in a seasoned flour. The outside is crisp; the inside is juicy. The chicken is propped up on violet-hued whipped mashed potatoes, but the side of delicious baby squash and zucchini is way tastier than the taters. If I could cook veggies like this, I'd take the food pyramid by storm.
We go big for dessert three for four people to fight over. The tres leches pastele (milk-based sponge cake served cold) and tarta de manzana (skillet-baked apple pie) are delights, but the chocolate coconut cheesecake brownie lacks the promised coconut.
Scene: The owners use a gorgeous chocolate-colored wood from Mexico throughout the restaurant, creating a rustic, authentic feel. The dark wood contrasts nicely with the purple horseshoe booths that line the mellow gold walls, which match the dining chairs. Hollow white square candles set each table aglow.
The roll-up windows at the bar and sliding glass wall by the misted patio welcome the outdoors in, which is a design concept I can't get enough of. Love that open-air feel.
The only odd thing about the warm, well-thought-out space is the unexpected '80s music. Pet Shop Boys, Phil Collins, The Bangles? Sure, we hear a guilty pleasure or two, but the sounds don't fit the sensuous setting.
Bathroom break: Just as much thought is put into the restrooms as the restaurant. Candles, sleek white sinks, rusted three-roll toilet paper rods and circular mirrors with 4-inch carved frames create an inviting space.
Tab for four: $136 with tip and tax for atún de tartare ($14), shrimp brochetta ($12), tacos de pescado ($14), polla empanizado ($16), chipotle chicken pasta ($14), masa enchiladas ($11), tres leches pastele ($8), chocolate coconut cheesecake brownie ($8), tarta de manzana ($7) and prickly-pear lemonade ($3).
If work weren't buying: I've lived and dined in Mesa for the last four years, and this is the closest to a foodie place I've found.
Zócalo Spanish Fusion
2831 N. Power Road, Mesa
Major cross streets: Power and
McDowell roads
Hours: 4 to 11 p.m. Sunday through Thursday,
4 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday
Reservations accepted: Yes
Health report: Not available
Kid friendly: Yes
Web site: www.zocaloconcepts.com
Scorecard
Food A-
Service B
Scene B
Bathrooms A
Overall B+
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