Ho-hum entrees can't keep up with Dragon Wok's appetizers
By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
GET OUT

Wait: The most polite, mohawked teen of all time opened the door for us as we approached Dragon Wok. Once inside, we were shown to a booth at 7:45 p.m. on a Tuesday.

Service: The staff was almost too polite, repeatedly asking if plates could be cleared and even saying “May I take this?” when we had the check hanging off the table with credit card popping out. Don’t get me wrong, I’ll take overly polite over rude any day, but the constant questioning did kill a couple of our conversations.

Meal: Half was great, half wasn’t. We adored our never-before-seen calamari appetizer. Tender calamari strips were lightly battered, flash fried, patted free of grease and then tossed with salt, pepper, scallions and bell peppers. I hope to see this light, Wok wonder pop up on other Chinese menus around town. Our chicken lettuce wraps were served with a plate of cold and crisp iceberg lettuce that made perfect pockets for the minced chicken and veggies.

One drawback to these otherwise tasty apps — the soy-based dipping sauce served with both was too intense and had a faint Southern Comfort-ish aftertaste. The peppery hot and sour soup and war wonton soup could best most competitors’ versions.

We didn’t have as much success with our main dishes. While the sweet-smelling, honey spicy shrimp and chicken plate was scraped clean, we hardly touched the orange beef. The orange sauce, which literally tasted like the sweet fruit, had a coating that looked and tasted like a funnel cake. The pungent sauce and heavy breading made it impossible to eat more than a piece or two. We were surprised to see our garlic chicken smoothly coated with breading that didn’t allow the garlic sauce to penetrate the chicken. The result was a garlic dish that had no garlic taste.

Scene: Nicely appointed with a long, narrow dining room of booths and tables. A leafy bamboo stand sitting on top of a counter greens the place up a bit, as does the beautiful carved jade ship showcased near the entry. A dimming of the track lights would have made the pretty pastel orange, pink and green umbrellas hanging from the ceiling pop.

Bathroom break: Freshly cleaned (a woman with a mop was on her way out!) with light gold and red colors.

Tab for four: $72 with tip and tax for chicken lettuce wraps ($5.99), salt and pepper calamari ($5.99), cup of war wonton soup ($3.99), cup of hot and sour soup ($2.99), honey shrimp and chicken ($10.99), orange beef ($8.59), garlic chicken ($7.99), pung wok beef ($8.59).

If work weren’t buying: We were two for two on apps, but batted a meager .250 on entrees. If you’re going to give the 3-month-old Chopstixx replacement a shot, go for happy hour (4 to 6:30 p.m. daily) when you can hit those high notes for half price. With 11 appies, one could easily make a meal of it.

Dragon Wok
727 W. Ray Road, Gilbert

Major cross streets: Ray and Cooper roads
Hours:11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday Reservations accepted: Yes Health report: No major violations on Jan. 28 Kid friendly: Yes Web site: www.dragonwok.biz