Even if there's no game on, Half Moon is a sports bar well done
By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
Get Out

Wait: We walked into the dark sports bar just after 5 p.m. on a Phoenix Suns playoff Sunday. The hostess stand is impossible to miss, centered in the entry and set aglow by a see-through projection screen hovering above a smiling young greeter. The three of us were seated right away.

Service: One of the most streamlined systems I’ve seen — our friendly server wowed us when she punched our order into a Palm Pilot. Very cool — hadn’t seen that at a restaurant. Shortly after our starters order was beamed to the kitchen, the waitress delivered a tidy white plate of wings and a Frito pie bowl. She was thoughtful enough to warn us about eating the latter first to avoid soggy chips. Soda refills were brought without asking, and an old flip-top seltzer bottle of cold water was dropped on the table to keep the rest of us from going thirsty.

Meal: If you’ve been mourning the disappearance of Roaring Fork’s Frito pie, head for Half Moon. While the version we tried wasn’t the work of a James Beard Award-winning chef, the whacky Texas triple threat of fritos, chili and cheese was a suitable substitute for the much-loved appetizer that once graced Robert McGrath’s menu. The teriyaki wings were meaty, hot, sticky delights with snappy carrot and celery sticks cleanly displayed beside them. The cheesesteak was not authentic, but I’d bet it could still win the heart of many a Philly transplant with its juicy, thin, chopped prime rib grilled with diced onions and red bell peppers. The warm, soft hoagie roll held its ground against the grease all good cheesesteaks are known for, yet it didn’t overpower or fill my mouth up with more bread per bite than meat. A layer of melted provolone (I know it isn’t Cheez Whiz, but I’m telling you, it works) held the whole scrumptious package together.

While I was very impressed with the fancy greens used for the cheesesteak’s side salad, some of the bottom leaves had gone bad and were mushy. The search for great fish and chips continues. The two thick, bright white pieces of cod were not to blame — I just found the beer batter a too-thick bore. Tartar sauce rocked, though — chunky, cold and fresh. Our barbecue bacon cheddar burger had a delicious smoky taste and oozed flavor. It was one of the most impressive bar burgers I’ve had. A note about the fries: Don’t refer to them as “famous” on the menu if they’re average at best.

Scene: There’s not a bad seat in the house. Big, flat-screen TVs are either mounted or framed in the wall about every 10 feet and they’re all high enough to avoid being blocked by passers-by. It’s a beautiful thing, clean and perfectly planned. If you want the comforts of home, reserve the Loge or Skybox. Each of the pimpy rooms is stacked with comfy couches, cocktail tables and a 42-inch plasma. Oh, I almost forgot — the whole Half Moon theme is played up for a good laugh courtesy of professional black-and-white photos of pants slipping off everyone from out-of-shape men bowling to long-legged ladies playing volleyball.

Bathroom break: There’s a TV in the middle of the mirror!

Tab for three: $54 with tip and tax for Frito pie ($6.50), wings (charged $3.50, menu said $7.25), Philly cheesesteak ($9.25), fish and chips ($9), barbecue bacon cheddar burger ($8.75), bottle of root beer ($2.50) and fountain drink ($2.25).

If work weren't buying: I don’t even need the lure of a big game to get me back to this well-crafted bar and grill.

Scorecard
Food B
Service B+
Scene A
Bathrooms B+
Overall B+

Half Moon Sports Grill
325 W. Elliot Road, Tempe

Major cross streets: Kyrene and Elliot roads
Hours: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily
Reservations accepted: Yes
Health report: Four major violations
on March 21
Kid friendly: Yes
Web site: www.halfmoonsportsgrill.com