Wait: We arrived about 5:15 p.m. on a Saturday and were seated right away.

Service: Cheery and efficient, our server got the job done. Our only complaint: Our appetizer arrived about a minute before our entreés, so we were bombarded with food. To our server’s credit, though, she was very apologetic.

What we liked: We really liked the salsa which arrived as soon as we slid into our booth; spicy and loaded with chopped veggies, it was flavorful and fresh. Unfortunately, that’s about all that impressed. Mind you, there was nothing bad about our entreés — spinach enchiladas and seafood enchiladas with shrimp and crab — they were just bland. Even the rice, refried beans and pounds of cheese which covered everything on our plates lacked the punch you expect from authentic Mexican cuisine. (In that regard, Nando’s reminded me more of a national chain than an independent eatery, as I could see it doing very well in, say, Poughkeepsie.) For tourists, Nando’s cuisine will probably suffice, but for die-hard Mexican food connoisseurs, the flavorless fare just doesn’t cut it.

Scene: Lined with lots of comfy booths and decked out in a palette of earth tones, this Mexican restaurant is far less kitschy than some of its competitors. I also liked that Pete Yorn was playing over the stereo system; I didn’t like that the place was so packed with noisy kids that I could barely hear poor Pete. But then, this is Gilbert — rambunctious youngsters are to be expected — so I just sucked it up.

Bathroom break: Well stocked and — aside from a few paper towels which littered the floor — tidy.

Tab for two: $30 with tax and tip for a cheese crisp with green chiles ($5.75), Enchiladas Espinaca ($8.95) and Enchiladas Del Mar ($8.95).
If work weren’t buying: With its family-friendly atmosphere, I’m sure Nando’s will be a big hit in Gilbert — despite the uninspired fare. But while I’m childless, I’m not tastebudless — so I won’t be making a second visit.

By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
Get Out

Wait: We arrived at 8:45 p.m. on a Thursday and were seated immediately.

Service: Very accommodating and thoughtful. A pitcher of ice water was waiting for us at our table, warm chips with two salsa options showed up a few minutes after we were seated, we were offered lemon wedges and extra napkins were brought out with our meal. When I asked to add cheese to my burro, our server asked me if I wanted it mixed in, melted on top or on the side. We were also offered the option of swapping our taco's corn tortillas with flour ones. There was no menu tweaking Nando's wasn't willing to oblige, it was a rare treat.

What we liked: Our appetizer of six mini shrimp chimis — wrapped in lightly-baked flour tortillas and served with a spicy cream cheese dip — were gone in a matter of minutes. The highlight of our dinner was the wonderful mesquite flavored steak and pork. The slightly-spicy meats were tender and juicy with a hint of pepper. Both were savory enough to eat sans the sides of sour cream, guacamole, cheese and pico de gallo.

Scene: Nando's — which was bustling with families as well as friends out for a margarita — has an inviting Old Mexico motif. Exposed brick peeks through various sections of the mocha-colored walls, heavy wood shutters line the windows, Z Gallery-esque gold beaded lighting hangs above each table and the cushy booths are covered with a soft suede-like vinyl. The wrought-iron work used throughout (think sprawling leafless trees) is intertwined with twinkle lights and works well as an elegant space divider.

Bathroom break: Clean and nicely decorated with a light stone counter top and dried floral arrangements.

Tab for two: $36 with tax and tip for mini shrimp chimis ($6.75), mesquite tacos ($8.50), fajita burro ($6.95), side of rice, beans and cheese ($3.95) and an ice tea ($1.95).

If work weren’t buying: It's not often a Mexican food junkie such as myself stumbles across a south-of-the-border flavor they've yet to experience, but Nando's mesquite meats were a peppery palate surprise. I'm looking forward to seeing what else this Gilbert restaurant has cookin’.

Nando’s Mexican Cafe
3519 E. Baseline Road, Gilbert

Major cross streets: Baseline Road and Val Vista Drive
Reservations accepted: Only for groups of seven or more
Kid friendly: Yes
Health report: No violations on March 4
Prices: $3.25-$13.95
Most interesting item: Tacos Pescado, $8.95