When each of us was born, we were just brimming with potential. Some had more than others.

Such is the case with restaurants. Marketing budgets aside, each begins on a level playing field. Some soar from the beginning, some take awhile to hit their stride, and others just dont have what it takes to succeed and never will.

Livingstons falls into the middle category. It is a restaurant with enthusiastic service, talent in the kitchen and, with its emphasis on soul food, the commitment to fill a huge void in the East Valley.

An unwritten rule for dining critics dictates that restaurants shouldnt be reviewed for the first month or so, since it takes awhile to work the kinks out. Often, though, reviewers are in such a hurry to be the first to review a new restaurant that they ignore this rule.

After a spot opened up in my review calendar, I visited Livingstons, little more than a week after it opened. I like the location, an area in Scottsdale in much need of more restaurants.

The decor is casual but neat, with no-frills tables and chairs and a variety of art on the walls. The smoking section is in a completely separate room from nonsmoking.
Hostesses and servers have a friendly enthusiasm, as though they have a real stake in the success of the business.

The foods sampled by my companion and I are works in progress. The smothered chicken was good and the collard greens had a nice kick.

The catfish was fine, but I would have preferred many smaller pieces to one medium-size fillet. The outside was too crispy, as well.

The macaroni and cheese was too greasy; oil from the cheese accumulated at the bottom of the bowl. With just a little tweaking, it would be just right. The yams, too, were just a little off too sweet for me to have more than one bite.

The same need for minor adjustments can be seen in the sweet potato pie, a dessert with good nutmeg flavor that would have been better lukewarm, but it tasted like it was nuked in the microwave before it was served.

Other items on the menu include seafood gumbo, meatloaf, chicken-fried steak, ox tail stew, pork chops, pigs' feet and a variety of barbecued meats.

Soul-food restaurants are few and far between in these parts. Good soul-food restaurants are even rarer. That alone should be enough to bring diners into this unique restaurant.

Still, there is another reason to go. This restaurant has a family feel, a lot of heart and loads of potential. Ill be going back next month, and I have a feeling Im really going to like what I find.

What: Livingstons
Where: 7111 E. Thomas Road (just west of Scottsdale Road)
Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily
How much: Most entrees $8-$12
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