Tapas has good service, inconsistent food

By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI|
GET OUT

Wait: We walked into the new Tapas — which has a 7-year-old sister restaurant in Newport Beach, Calif. — at 6:30 p.m. on a Sunday.

Service: A soft-spoken woman with a strong Spanish accent was pulling double duty as a hostess and server. She did both well and was thoughtful enough to let us know the paella for one was actually enough for two, thus saving us $15.95. Our small water glasses put the busser to the test, and he more than passed.

Meal: I’ve had better Mediterranean salads at sandwich shops. The artichoke hearts, which tasted like the flavorless jarred variety, and romaine lettuce dominated the salad, while the tomato wedges along the edge of the bowl were greenish and there was only one slice of cucumber. The vinaigrette dressing was so light it hardly had a taste.

The antipasto Madrid combo starter — tortilla espanola (like an egg-and-potato omelette pie), garlic- and butter-sautéed mushrooms, crab croquettes, chorizo and a chicken empanada — was a nice introduction to a variety of Spanish specialties. But the flaky goodness empanadas are known for was ruined by a sauce that turned the top of the pastry soggy, and the grilled sausage link was covered in an uninspired marinara. I can see why the tortilla espanola is so popular in Spain — it’s simple but delicious.

The house paella, which turned out to be more than enough for two, gave us a second sample of the chorizo, and it was much better when served sliced rather than in a link smothered with sauce. The pork valencia had several thin slices of meat (one overcooked, one not) topped with a sugary, warm pear sauce. The dish was served with steamed veggies and a fried mashed-potato ball (bomba) drizzled with aioli. If it weren’t for the tough pork, this plate would have been a delight.

Scene: Burnt-orange concrete floors, red walls and linen table cloths and napkins create a nice European scene in the two-story Old Town Scottsdale restaurant. Flamenco dancers stomp and twirl on weekend nights.

Bathroom break: Clean and warehouse-chic with shiny diamond-plated, heavy metal siding for the stall doors and walls. The sink counter was held up with thick, boltlike legs with rounded tops.

Tab for three: $87 with tip and tax for antipasto Madrid ($14.95), Mediterranean salad ($6.95), bowl of fabada ($4.95), pork valencia ($14.95), house paella ($15.95), chocolate and churros ($5.25) and crema catalina ($4.95).

If work weren’t buying: At three weeks young, Tapas is still too inconsistent for the money.

TAPAS RESTAURANT FLAVORS OF SPAIN
7228 E. First Ave., Scottsdale

Major cross streets: Scottsdale Road and First Avenue
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday.
Reservations accepted: Yes
Health report: Not available
Kid friendly: Yes
Web site: www.tapasflavorsofspain.com