Piquillo pepper relleno, buttery braised yucca prove Tapino's menu has slew of new tastes

By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
Get Out

Wait: We were the last customers of the night, arriving just short of 9 p.m. on a Tuesday. We were greeted at the door and given our choice of booth or table in the nearly empty dining room.

Service: Always there and yet never there, our stealthy server made 10-odd trips to our table without ever interrupting our conversation or asking us a question while our mouths were full. Our blue-haired hipster of a waitress didn’t bat an eye when we asked for a cafe mocha even though the only espresso options on the menu were a latte and cappucino. We were wished a good night by our server, the guy behind the bar and a trio of chefs who were winding down on the front patio.

What we liked: Tapino (blend “tapas” with “vino”) calls its small plates “little bites of food to amuse the mouth” and that’s precisely what they are. Our chilled cheese plate of gruyere, brie and tetilla was paired with two teeny-tiny red apple wedges, a thin slice of pear and a dab of sweet, reddish jam-jelly stuff. The various combinations of tastes were just as fun to create as they were to eat. Our three beautiful bruschettas — built on thin, toasted slices of sourdough bread divided into fourths — were tidily topped with chilled, fresh and flavorful tomatoes, cheese, beans and other tasty stuff. The little piquillo pepper relleno with chorizo and saffron rice was so good I’d be tempted to order four of them and make a meal of it. But, alas, the other starters are too tasty to ignore. The only weak spot was the lobster risotto, which was bland in comparison to everything else. Our medium-well steak, which we ordered medium-rare, was a little chewy but we discovered a new favorite vegetable thanks to the buttery braised yucca. Oops, I almost forgot to mention the thick, garlic- infused hummus — its flat out the best mashed-up chickpeas I’ve ever had.

Scene: The entertaining wine list (a Columbia Crest cab blurb reads: “I know, I know. You’ve seen it at Price Club for $9.99. Well, I’ve seen it on lists for $30 — so we’re even”) sets a playful scene at this big but cozy wine bar.

Bathroom break: An oh-so-proper voice broadcasts a Wine 101 of sorts through the restroom speakers in this spacious, uplit lavatory. Lotion and tissues were a nice bonus.

Tab for two: $70 with tax and tip for a three-cheese plate ($7), three bruschetta plate ($7), lobster risotto ($6), piquillo pepper relleno ($4), Yama Kobe beef steak ($22), cardamom and apple beignets ($6) and cafe mocha ($4).

If work weren’t buying: A wine bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously and offers 20-plus tapas? Amuse me and my mouth all you want, Tapino.

By CHRIS PAGE
Get Out

Wait: We arrived at 9 p.m. on a Saturday and were seated immediately in the dining room, which was three- quarters full. My companion wanted to burn through a few cancer sticks, though, so we moved to a back corner in the “smokes-OK” bar area.

Service: Our server had no problem with us making the room switcheroo, and she took the extra effort to serve us even though we were out of her jurisdiction. Our only gripe: Getting the check took an absurdly long time.

What we liked: We love the concept of tapas: bite-size delicacies that allow diners to sample a wide variety of flavors instead of bursting their guts with one dish. Here’s an eatery that’s a notch more upscale than fellow Scottsdale tapas joint Ibiza, with a menu that’s so mouth-watering I’m compelled to strap on my Red Lobster bib just perusing it. We were too captivated by smaller dishes like the cheese plate and sublime bruschetta (the crab and truffle oil is to die for) to upgrade to the entrée menu. We were too full by the end of a brilliantly complex foie gras dish with honey and rosemary to try the lobster and vanilla risotto. Which only means one thing: return trip.

Scene: Tapino’s rich, woody, dimly lit aesthetic is as sexy as hearing a mustachioed Spaniard with a smoky, husky voice say, "Tapas." (I’m imagining Bill Murray in that "¿Quién es más macho?" sketch on "SNL." Or Antonio Banderas in "Four Rooms.") Meanwhile, bar patrons are treated to abstract art by the Valley’s own Robert Hilton.

Bathroom break: Clean, well- stocked, dimly lit, awkwardly romantic. I’m hearing that "tapas" voice again. The only hitch is that diners must cross through the potentially smoky bar area to get to the loo.

Tab for two: $32 with tax and tip for a cheese plate ($7), bruschetta ($7), foie gras ($7) and creme brulée trio ($7.50).

If work weren’t buying: Did I mention the spoon-size creme brulée trio? Don’t wear a good tie to Tapino. You’ll end up getting drool all over it.

Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar
7000 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale

Major cross streets: Scottsdale Road and Shea Boulevard
Hours: 5 p.m. to “close” Tue.-Sun.
Reservations accepted: Yes
Health report: Not available
Kid friendly? No
Web site: www.tapino.com