Everything from atmosphere to entrées aims to make customers fall in love with Venice Ristorante Italiano

By CRYSTAL PETROCELLI
Get Out

Wait: We walked in at 7 p.m. on a Wednesday and were immediately shown to a corner table.

Service: A warm basket of sliced French bread and glasses of ice water were on our table seconds after we were seated. Moments later, our black-clad server stopped by to take our drink order. Courses were spaced perfectly, plates were cleared as new ones were being delivered and fresh-ground pepper was offered for our salads. We never felt rushed, even though we were the last ones in the dining room as we lingered over our shared cappuccino.

What we liked: The menu was impressive. For the pasta lover, there were a dozen dishes to choose from, but for anyone looking for something else Venice also offers risotto, four different steaks and a handful of chicken and veal dishes. Despite the large menu, quality is kept high. The barely breaded and very lightly fried calamari was a wonderful starter and plenty for four to share. Our medium rare filet mignon was masterfully grilled to a butter- knife-sliceable consistency. Sautéed mushrooms and a light garlic, olive oil and parsley sauce topped the thick, generous cut of steak. The entrée came with soup or salad (the iceberg-free house salad was a winner); smooth garlic mashed potatoes (or penne marinara) and steamed veggies. From appetizers to dessert, portions were generous, flavors were exciting and presentation was attractive.

Scene: Dark hues, dim lighting and a lounge singer? I’m guessing this place is going for romance but an attention- deprived toddler (I’m guessing he was 30 months) effectively killed the mood in the cozy dining room. Why the 40- something couple thought Baby Billy would enjoy spending an hour with them in this quiet restaurant is beyond me, but I felt sorry for the little guy.

Bathroom break: Clean and stocked, with a few wall hangings for good measure.

Tab for two: $83 with tip and tax for calamari fritti ($7.95), mussels ($8.95), Caesar salad ($4.50), baked ziti ($11.95), filet mignon ‘‘Aglio Olio’’ ($21.95), crème brûlée ($5) and cappuccino ($3.95).

If work weren’t buying: Although I was sad to hear Suroeste Grille closed, Venice is more than a suitable substitute.

Table service great but kitchen slow, dishes hit-or-miss

By CHRIS PAGE
Get Out

Wait: We arrived at 8 on a Tuesday evening and were seated immediately.

Service: Our primary server told us she’d been working there for two weeks, but she was all-pro navigating the menu with us and making recommendations. She, and other waitstaff, kept our glasses filled and plates cleared pronto, though the kitchen did lag — an hour passed between appetizers and entrées — in spite of a mostly empty dining room.

What we liked: At its core, Venice Ristorante Italiano is a neighborhood eatery — dishing up Italian comfort foods like gnocchi, veal and pizza with only the subtlest of personal twists. From the starting basket of above-par bread to a creamy tiramisu, we weren’t wowed by anything so much as lulled into a comfortable, Atkins-shattering satiation. My companion’s capellini al pomodoro was punctuated with fresh basil and garlic for an articulated, almost perfumey flavor; we wanted the recipe.

My beef tenderloin Gorgonzola was less praise-worthy, as the medallions of tenderloin were delivered medium-well rather than the preferred rare, slathered in an overly heavy chianti sauce and plunked into a mound of garlic mashed potatoes — all said, the dish settled in my gut like a Stroganoff. Our appetizers were similarly mixed: My crab cakes in a sherry mustard sauce were divine, while my companion’s grilled portabello mushroom was ruined by a pool of too-acidic tomato sauce (a sprinkle of sugar, please). We asked if the ultra-delish tiramisu was made in-house, and our server returned from the kitchen nodding, adding, “They almost hit me in there when I asked.”

Scene: Venice is cozy, tucked into a strip mall, and the dining room interior is romantically dim, a nice quiet getaway for neighborhood couples. Be warned that cigarette smoke from the bar easily wafts into the main dining area, which might disturb the flavor of your food.

Bathroom break: Nice to know a man can take care of business while reading up on the fine variety of Jack Daniels liquors from a poster on the wall. Otherwise, the standard-issue potty room was clean and well-stocked.

Tab for two: $69 with tax and tip for crab cakes ($8.95), portabello mushroom appetizer ($7.95), capellini al pomodoro ($10.95), beef tenderloin Gorgonzola ($21.95) and tiramisu ($5). Strangely, we weren’t charged for drinks, and our tiramisu was 25 cents cheaper than the menu’s listed price.

If work weren’t buying: It’s a fine intimate alternative to the typical chain Italian joint (cough! OliveGarden! cough!), but we’re concerned that prices at this neighborhood nosh room are just a bit too high for the mixed quality of its offerings. Nevertheless — live nearby? We say give it a try.