Arizonans accustomed to buying top-quality wines from out-of-state providers now have two excellent reasons to check out vintages on the home front.
Callaghan Vineyards and Dos Cabezas Wineworks, both in the Sonoita/Elgin area south of Willcox, have quietly been racking up state and national honors in the wine scene. Even so, their prize-winning reds and whites are only the beginning. Both winemakers continue to refine the character and complexity of varietals uniquely suited to Arizona climate and soils.
Callaghan and Dos Cabezas are standouts in a fledgling industry that has offered up more than its share of losers, and made the term "Arizona wine" almost an oxymoron until recent years. Typically, the greater the amount of self-laudatory promotion, the more ghastly the quality of product. One "winemaker" used table grape rejects to create his stuff. Another who professes to own hundreds of acres of vineyards actually buys his grapes from the neighbors. One of the oldest wine outfits in the state insists on using European methods that, under Southwest conditions, yield expensive, gag-me-with- a-spoon wines that might better serve as foot balm.
In the final analysis, of course, taste is the determinant of quality, and
two Arizona guys have come up with the recipes that impress average wine lovers and connoisseurs alike.
Callaghan Vineyards Proprietor and do-everything person: Kent Callaghan.
With only 18 acres of vines cultivated, Callaghan has continuously produced winners since he began the business in 1991. In 1993 and again in 2000, his vintages were selected for dinners of state at the White House. In Arizona's Governor's Choice wine competitions, he regularly takes first place in major categories.
Le Monde magazine in 2000 listed Callaghan as one of six wineries/
winemakers in the United States worth noting, saying, "astonishing,
concentrated and fruity wines. This pioneer symbolizes the spirit of the
wines of the New World."
Wryly humorous, not given to mincing words, Callaghan has definite opinions about winemaking. He makes the kinds of wines he likes to drink: big and bold, intense, with distinct character. He's convinced that varietal grapes like mourvedre, grenache and tempranillo are the secret to producing top-quality wines in Arizona. He shuns American oak barrels ("they add a blatantly oaky flavor to the wine, and they tend to muddle it") in favor of French and Hungarian oak, which he says impart subtle spice essences reminiscent of clove, cinnamon and allspice.
The first weekend in November, Callaghan will hold his annual "new release tasting" of his 2001 vintages and some past prize winners, including Lisa's Selection (a blend of riesling and viognier), Buena Suerte Cuvee (mostly cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with zinfandel - this was the White House pick), Tempranillo (tempranillo and petit sirah), Blended Syrah, True Syrah and Back Lot Mourvedre.
In the Valley, Callaghan wines are available from AZ Wine Company in
Scottsdale; AJ's Purveyor of Fine Foods outlets; Sportsman's Fine Wines; and restaurants including Cowboy Ciao in Scottsdale and Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. On-site tasting and purchases directly from the winery are
available on Fridays and Saturdays.
Dos Cabezas Wineworks Owners: Al Buhl, Frank DiChristofano, Sam Pillsbury.
Buhl, a government personnel manager, founded the business. DiChristofano, a retired Tucson Volvo dealer, is the winemaker. Pillsbury is an acclaimed filmmaker (most recently, he directed "Free Willy"). The company has been operating for six years. Initially, Kent Callaghan was Al's winemaker (and the two produced award-winning white wines from the onset), but he lacked the time to work both operations.
Dos Cabezas is no stranger to the White House, either. In February, the
winery's pinot gris was selected for serving at a dinner of state. In the
2000 Arizona Governor's Choice competition, Dos Cabezas' 1998 chardonnay took first place among the whites. This year the Pocket Wine Guide said, "Dos Cabezas is producing fantastic wines from petite sirah and a blend of petite sirah and sangiovese."
Last year, Forbes Magazine had equally good words for the petite sirah: "A heady, fleshy, massively constructed red wine that tastes so big it probably doesn't need a bottle to hold itself up. Great with just about any beast hot off any grill."
This winery doesn't yet have an official tasting room, but its wine club
makes vintages available for tasting and purchasing at member events. At a recent "barrel tasting" in Tucson, the owners provided club members with advance samples of wines that will become the 2001 offering, including La Montaña (petite sirah, petite merlot and cabernet sauvignon), Rosado (blush wine), Toscano (primarily sangiovese), cabernet sauvignon (with merlot) and chardonnay (lighter version, created by whole pressing the grapes instead of crushing them).
Like Callaghan, the Dos Cabezas trio has begun augmenting classic grape plantings with varietals that are best suited to Arizona conditions.
In the East Valley, Dos Cabezas wines are available at most places where Callaghan's are. You can also find them at Drinkwater's, Duck & Decanter, Epicurean Wine Service, P.F. Chang's and My Florist Café.
Callaghan and Buhl are happy to report that at least two new players will
be joining the Arizona winemaking industry soon. One is planting 18 acres near Callaghan's operation, and the other plans his vineyards near Sedona.
"These people are knowledgeable - for a change," Kent says. "They're getting into the business because they know wine, and they like it. This is something they want to do, not just a casual change of lifestyle."
What: Callaghan Vineyards Where: 336 Elgin Road, Elgin Info: , www.callaghanvineyards.com or e-mail: Directions: From the East Valley, take I-10 east toward Tucson. Take the AZ-83 south exit (exit No. 281) toward Sonoita/Patagonia, keep right at the fork in the ramp. Stay straight to go onto AZ-83. After 30 miles, turn left onto Elgin Road. Take Elgin Road for 3.5 miles.
What: Dos Cabezas Wineworks Where: Sonoita Info: or e-mail:
Wine tasting close to home
The East Valley has its own wine tasting venue in Kokopelli Winery. The
bistro/winery is at 35 W. Boston St. in Chandler and offers tastings from
2:30 to 5 p.m. Thursday through Saturday. Info: or www.kokopelliwinery.com.
