Rocky point has never looked, or tasted, better By Bill Norman
Special to Get Out
People who haven’t visited Puerto Peñasco, Mexico — more commonly known as Rocky Point — in the last few years will be stunned if they see how the place has grown and continues to become more sophisticated.
Originally the town was a sleepy, largely undiscovered fishing village, then gradually a rugged seaside encampment with a bit of rustic housing where U.S. citizens (increasingly those of college age persuasion) could camp out, four-wheel through the sand, fish and go berserk in a fw rowdy bars if they chose.
Those options are still available (although fewer campsites and more bars), but they’re rapidly getting competition from classy condominiums, high-dollar homes, upscale restaurants and amenities such as sunset dinner cruises, golf courses and wireless Internet service.
That’s not all bad, but a visitor returning after years away may need a tour guide. Here’s a start.
BARS & CLUBS
Legendary JJ’s Cantina in Cholla Bay (several miles north of Rocky Point proper) is still rockin’, and probably will be forever. It’s big, loud and frenzied. They may make margarita mix by the 55-gallon drum.
Outdoor concrete tables descend in terraces to the beach. Satellite TV inside appeals to U.S. sports fans.
Manny’s Beach Club (in the Mirador area, south of the town’s primary business and government center) has a permanent sign that reads, “Beach Party Tonight.” They could drop the ‘‘Tonight’’ part and still be accurate. This place is a full-time, open-air party under huge palapa-like roofs. A half-dozen TV sets cater to Americans who can’t do without them. The food’s great, the beer-and-cocktails list is impressive and there’s room at tables and the bar for at least 200 peoplebodies.
A half-dozen newer bars, including the Pink Cadillac and Happy Frog, cluster near Manny’s and focus most on the collegiate crowd. They’re pretty quiet when the students aren’t in town. If you were dismayed to hear that Margaritaville shut down, rejoice. Three American guys in town have bought it and are getting it back into service.
The best and cheapest tequila in town? Try Mickey’s in Old Port, where many curio shops and fish market stalls are located. Lupe (short for Jose Guadalupe) is the owner. Tell him you want some of his brother-in-law’s tequila from Jalisco. The name of the juice is Tiquilito, and it’s possibly the smoothest ever made. No need for salt or lime. Sit a spell on Lupe’s second-floor patio and try some of the stuff room-temperature or over just a smidgen of ice.
RESTAURANTS
The bad news is that La Cita Café, one of the oldest, best (they offered beer at breakfast) and cheapest eateries in town is no more. The matriarch died, and no one’s carried on her tradition.
Also, Costa Brava, the hotel and restaurant that was a favorite of tourists, went up in a propane blast a few years ago, but a new restaurant by the same name is up and running about three blocks away.
Other oldies are still active, and they have some new brethren. With few exceptions, all offer seafood (shrimp is the big deal in this town) and Mexican and U.S. favorites, although the latter may not exactly remind you of home.
Lilly’s cafe in Old Port remains a super breakfast spot, directly overlooking the malecon (breakwater). Two blocks up the hill is Old Port Galley, a simple diner operated by gringos, but the cook is Mexican. Tasty and inexpensive.
One block away is the Friendly Dolphin, a big, multistory restaurant very popular with Americans and boasting one of the most extensive menus in town.
If you spot the relatively new Portofino Italian Ristorante down on the malecon, don’t be fooled into thinking this one is a poor local imitation of the real thing. The owner is Italian-American. Look for a big sandy-haired guy named Alex who is obviously in charge. He speaks at least three languages, including English, and is happy to chat with customers. Appetizers here (consider the steak tartare in lime juice with provolone and baby spinach) are superb.
For an all-you-can-eat-for-less-than-six-bucks breakfast buffet, it would be hard to beat the Playa Bonita, where the restaurant snuggles between the PB hotel and the largest RV park in town. Lots of fresh fruit to select from, eggs and omelets cooked to order and flour tortillas made hot on the spot.
La Curva (as in The Curve) is located just a bit inland, but well worth the extra drive of a few blocks. This is a big place with multiple dining rooms, strolling mariachis, a lively bar and great chow.
The highest altitude place of all (with views that extend for nearly a hundred miles — bring your binoculars and camera) is El Casa del Capitan. It’s great for chips and salsa early in the afternoon or a full-bore evening meal, although it’s among the more expensive options.
How about Las Fuentes (on Fremont, west of City Hall), probably the newest and most visually appealing restaurant? Servers are charming, there’s a huge fireplace, and state-of-the-art software prints out your tab. Unfortunately, they pour a lower grade of tequila for the margaritas, and much of the food sucks.
OTHER ITEMS
For things to do and places to stay, Rocky Point offers more than ever (see accompanying stories). The sun, sand and surf are less than a four-hour drive from the Valley, and passports aren’t required. The roads south from the border are excellent.
Good (won’t-make-you-sick) ice is available at dozens of markets; good bottled water is the norm in restaurants and bars. Shopping opportunities abound for reasonably priced Mexican-made goods. The American dollar is universally accepted. ATMs are common (although they usually pay off in pesos).
Do buy Mexican auto insurance. Look in the phone book or do a Web search. Insurance costs as little as 10 bucks a day, and you can buy it online (and print out the policy) with a credit card. If you have an accident and aren’t insured (typical U.S. insurance policies don’t work), you could end up in jail.
Be sure you don’t take any firearms or ammo into Mexico. In Lukeville, at the border crossing, safe storage lockers are available for items not suitable for crossing the border.
Sidebar 1: Lodging
Where to lay your head
The options for renting houses and condominiums in Rocky Point are extensive and outstanding.
Potential visitors can Google their options by pumping in some verbiage like ‘‘Lodging in Rocky Point, Mexico.’’ However, the biggest outfit in town unquestionably has the largest selection and the easiest way of doing business.
Seaside Reservations (rents resort condos) and Cyndi’s Beach Home Rentals (homes — including some gigantic ones — and condos) are part of the same outfit, and they have hundreds of rental properties on a 20-mile stretch along the beach. Rentals range from simple one-bedroom high-rise condos to eight-bedroom, seven-bath homes with multiple refrigerators and hot tubs. All rentals can be conducted in real time on the Internet.
The person who runs the operation is a 34-year-old dude from New Mexico named Steve Schwab, who lives in Rocky Point. He’s got a rags-to-riches story that boggles the mind, but he’s also a humble guy who’s among the biggest philanthropists in town. He’s usually available to chat with visitors, and is a walking chamber of commerce when it comes to describing fun things to do in the vicinity.
Visitors to Rocky Point may know that fishing is an option, but few probably are aware of the whole menu of seagoing recreation.
In addition to being able to charter fishing boats (from small, locally owned open-bow pangas to multilevel deep-sea rigs), tourists can go snorkeling and scuba diving at primo venues such as Bird Island, about 25 miles southeast of Rocky Point.
The only dive shop in town is owned by a woman originally from southern California, who’s lived in Mexico for 15 years. Patti Nardin, a fun and knowledgeable lady, is a certified diving instructor. Her Sun ’n’ Fun Dive Shop (located near the entrance to Old Port) rents wet suits and diving gear, fills air tanks and sells just about everything associated with ocean enjoyment.
Sun ’n’ Funer cruises and parasailing flights with all the local providers of those activities. Check out www.sun-fundivers.com. If Patti is not immediately at hand, chat with shop manager Priscela Moreno, a delightful lady who has a degree in chemical engineering from the University of Hermosillo.
